PETALUMA. Out-of-towners often make the mistake of passing through Petaluma without paying this friendly eatery a visit ­ shame on them. Set on the street level of the historic Wickersham Building (circa 1850), Graziano's offers a comfy, unpretentious setting where the waitstaff befriends customers and the atmosphere gets more festive as the evening wears on. In addition, amiable chef-owner Graziano Perozzi dazzles with specialties like animelle (veal sweetbreads with mushrooms, brandy, and cream) and eggplant parmigiana (layered with creamy ricotta cheese and fresh tomato sauce). Reservations are suggested.

<i><b>Lunch</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Tue-Fri 11:30am-2pm <i><b>Dinner</b></i>&nbsp;&nbsp;Tue-Thu 5:30pm-9:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30pm-10pm; Sun 5pm-9:30pm

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