HEALDSBURG. Nestled in downtown Healdsburg, this open-air charmer has been a Sonoma Valley staple since the 1920s. As such, it ensures that locals and occasional tourists are well fed with a steady supply of lemon curd tarts, raspberry chocolate tortes, and scintillating strawberry-rhubarb pies. If a guilty conscience aims to ward off the idea of "dessert for lunch," never fear: Costeaux serves from-scratch soups, muffuletta sandwiches, and salads. Just be sure to save room for dessert! Box lunches and take-out available.

RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY. One of the better reasons to visit the sleepy Russian River Valley is Willow Wood, a cozy hideaway where patrons can sample classic comfort foods, sip outstanding wines, and enjoy a modicum of anonymity. Menu highlights include the market plate, a potpourri of everything from polenta to fresh tomatoes; the Mediterranean plate, with homemade hummus and pesto; and grilled ono, served with tomatillo salsa and black bean salad. Folks with lighter midday appetites heartily approve of the grilled endive salad and organic tomato soup flavored with roasted red beets.